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Other differences between picks, aside from the shape of the tip, are the material, finish, width and thickness of the tang shaft, and the shape and material of the handle. In general, the torque tool should be as thick as possible while still fitting in the keyway, and of a width sufficient to provide good control but without interfering with the picking tool's access to the pins. The selection of the torque tool is just as important as that of the pick, but, again, commercial pick kits often fail to include a sufficient range of sizes and designs to allow good control and feel across the range of common locks. Good tools are important, to be sure, but once a few basic tools are available the student of lock picking is usually better off investing in new locks on which to practice rather than in new picking tools. Picking tools are designed to perform one of two basic functions: manipulating pins and turning the plug. Right: Side view, with part of the shell and plug cut away to expose the six pin stacks. A key that is bitted to the wrong depth in even one pin position will not operate the lock.

If the torque tool is too thin, it will tend to be "springy" and will absorb much of the fine movement and control needed to successfully pick better quality locks. Many manufacturers outfit their picks with elaborate and supposedly "ergonomic" handles, but these often hinder performance as much as they might enhance it. Much of this is simply a matter of individual preference, but certain choices here can also have an impact on performance. On a given turn, the rules determine which ball can be pocketed. Right: With all of the cuts at the shear line, the plug can rotate freely within the shell. Pin tumbler lock picking consists of raising the cuts on each pin stack to the shear line, one by one, until the plug turns freely. The basic skills of pin tumbler lock picking include selecting the proper tools, manipulating pins through the keyway, applying torque, and recognizing the state of each pin.

The basic algorithm for picking locks is remarkably simple: - Apply a small amount of torque to the plug. A few basic tools are sufficient to pick the majority of commonly used locks. These imperfections are very small -- as little as .0001 inches in some cases -- but they are what allow us to manipulate ("pick") locks open without using the correct key. The game of English billiards is played on a relatively large table, usually 6 feet 1.5 inches by 12 feet (1.9 by 3.7 m); it is played with three balls as in carom-a plain white, a white with a spot, and a red. Spring steel or stainless steel, between .020 and .035 inches thick, are typical materials. Billiard balls come in various materials such as polyester, resin, and even ivory (though ivory balls are rare due to conservation efforts). To execute a carom shot successfully, start by analyzing the positioning of all relevant balls on the table. A player continues at the table for as long as he succeeds in scoring. Scoring a carom also entitles the player to another shot, and his turn, or inning, continues until he misses, when it becomes his opponent’s turn.

Left: Cylinder face, the lock's "user interface." Note the keyway, which is cut into the plug, which in turn sits inside the shell. Each board is labeled with its keyway, what is billiards and each lock cylinder on a board is labeled with the number of installed pin stacks (from one to six) and the keying code for its pinning. Find the binding pin and the non-binding pin. Figure 1. A pin tumbler lock cylinder. Drill a 1-3/8 inch hole and use the mounting hardware supplied with the cylinder. Practice distinguishing between the pin states and then finish picking the cylinder. Note the border between the plug and shell, which forms the shear line, and the cuts in each pin stack resting within the plug. The top pin of that pin stack will be trapped above the shear line, the bottom pin will fall freely, and now a new pin stack (the next most misaligned one) prevents further rotation.